Does Your Pet get “Chauffeured” to the Veterinary Office?

     You don’t have to be famous like “Morris, the cat or “Eddie” from the TV show “Frazier” to get chauffeured to the veterinary office. I see pets all the time that get this luxury. Well, maybe not the way you think it means. You see, anytime someone brings a dog or cat to my office and they don’t know anything about the pet or its medical condition, I consider that person a “chauffeur”. They just drove the pet to my office and that’s almost all they know about what’s going on.

Now, don’t get me wrong. Life happens and dogs and cats don’t get sick at convenient times for our schedules. So sometimes, just getting your pet to my office is the best we can both do. But, since your pet can’t tell me anything, I really rely on the person who brings them in to tell me as much as possible about the situation.

To help make sure I can do my very best for you both, I’ve come up with a list of information/questions to answer that you could write down and give the “chauffeur” to bring in with your pet.

1. If this is your pet’s first visit to my office or you haven’t brought this pet to see me in a number of years, please send your pet’s medical record from your previous veterinarian or have them fax or e-mail the medical record to my office before the appointment. If you can’t do this, at a minimum, write down some notes about your pet’s health and medical history. The type of information to include would be: What kind of vaccines where given, when they were given and if they are up to date; What medical problems has your pet had in the past, how were they treated and did they resolve; Has your pet had any tests in the last year such as stool parasite testing, heartworm testing, Feline Leukemia virus and AID’s virus testing and what were the results?
2. Write down a list of medications your pet is taking (including parasite preventatives and supplements), as well as how much, how often and how long it has been given, and/or send the bottles with your chauffeur.
3. Write down when/what your pet last ate or drank. What do they normally eat (brand of food or home cooked). Has there been any food changes within the last 2 weeks. Has there been any recent change in amount of water or food your pet wants to eat? Has your pet eaten anything they shouldn’t have, like garbage, human food, or a toxin?
4. Write down if there have been any changes in the elimination habits of your pet (stool or urine). What does it look like, how often do they go, are they successful in eliminating? Do they go in inappropriate places?
5. Write down any observations or concerns that you have about your pet. Especially the ones that prompted you to send your pet to me today. For example, if it’s a limp, which leg do you think he is limping on, how long has he been limping, is it getting better, worse or staying the same? If it is a lump on the body, use a marker to circle it or cut the hair off over the lump to identify the area. When did you first notice the lump/is it getting bigger/does it bother your pet?
6. Make sure the chauffeur has your phone number and you plan to be available to be contacted around the time of the appointment. That way, I can call you to discuss my findings and recommendations. If I can’t reach you, this delays moving forward in treating or diagnosing your pet.
7. Finally, plan ahead on how the bill will be paid. Give the chauffeur cash, provide us with your credit card over the phone or send your card with your chauffeur, along with permission to use it and for how much.

You and I both want your furry buddy feeling better quickly. So, if you’re going to chauffeur him to my hospital, send me all the information listed above and I’ll give him the “royal care” he deserves.

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“Buying Supplements? Buyer Beware!”

     I get asked many times about nutritional supplements. Have I heard of a certain brand? Is it okay to use human products? How much should I give? Do they really help?

First, it’s important to know, the federal government doesn’t have any laws to govern supplements either human or animal. They are not considered drugs. Instead, they are classified as food.   Because of that, supplement manufacturers are not required to prove that their product cures or treats any disease. In fact, unless they can provide such proof, they must specifically say that their product is not proven to treat any disease. However, they can insinuate a lot of things by providing testimonials and information about the product.

Does that mean that all supplements are worthless? Certainly not! Many ingredients in supplements have been proven to help people and animals. It just takes time and money to do the kind of studies that prove this is true. So, the best way to choose is to work with a veterinarian who is knowledgeable about them.

Another “problem” with choosing a supplement is that quality and purity of the ingredients is up to the manufacturer. Human pharmacists recognized this issue a number of years ago. They organized an independent study that looked at the amounts of ingredients in supplement products available for people to purchase. What they found is that the actual amount of an ingredient could vary from as little as 5% to more than 100% from the amount listed on the bottle. This study led to the development of an independent organization that now offers manufacturers the option of having their product routinely tested to prove the quantity and purity of their ingredients. If they pass the test, they are allowed to put the seal of approval of this organization on their product bottle.

There is a similar “watch dog” organization for supplements in animals, the National Animal Supplement Council (NASC). At the request of a manufacturer, a supplement product for animals can be randomly tested and if they meet the narrow margins for accurate quantity and quality, the product earns the quality seal of the NASC. This is sort of like the “Good Housekeeping Seal of Approval”. So, when choosing a product for your pet, always look for this seal.

The question of whether a human product will work as well as a product offered specifically for pets is a good one. The answer is ….. Maybe.   Although we are similar creatures, not every food or drug (whether natural or man-made) is safely interchangeable or effective at the same doses in people and pets. A good example is a natural sweetener in human foods, xylitol. It is perfectly safe in humans but deadly in dogs and cats.

In some cases, the safe and effective dose could be a lot less or a lot more in pets than in a human. If you want to try a human supplement on your pet, the best thing to do is to bring the bottle or a list of both the active and inactive ingredients and the MG strength to your veterinarian to make sure it is okay to use. At the very least, you can make sure it isn’t dangerous to try.

Some of the benefits of using an animal product are that it is likely flavored to appeal to your pet and make it more likely they will eat it voluntarily. Also, if you use the product your veterinarian recommends and it comes from them, you have their experience and knowledge backing the product as well. Many times this could mean that if you or your pet doesn’t like the product or it doesn’t work for them, you could get a refund. Always ask your veterinarian if this is the case before purchasing.

So, the bottom line is this. Nutritional supplements can be another valuable tool in treating and preventing diseases and pain in pets. Just make sure to be careful in choosing and consult your veterinarian before giving anything to your pet.

See this link for more information on human and pet supplements

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*Giving a Pet for Christmas?*

     Puppies and Kittens with red bows, popping out of a basket to the delighted squeals of children on Christmas morning seems like the perfect gift on TV commercials and holiday movies. But, are they really a good Christmas present?   The answer actually depends on the answers to these three questions:

1)    Does the person and their family want a pet?

2)    Does the person have time for a pet?

3)    Can the person afford to care for a pet?

Always ask the person (or their parents/family) before gifting a pet. It is important to make sure they really want a pet and the timing is right. If a person is taking off for a vacation over Christmas, they won’t be home to care for a new pet.

Be honest about the time commitment a pet takes. If the person receiving the pet has only a few days off around the holidays with no one at home after they go back to work, who will raise and train a puppy? In this case, a fully trained, adult dog or a cat might be a better choice for a gift.

Pets are not a one-time expense kind of gift. Even though the pet is “free”, they need food, toys, leashes, litterboxes and veterinary care for the rest of their lives. The new pet parent needs to be prepared and capable of taking on the expenses of caring for a pet.

If all the questions above are considered and answered appropriately, a new pet can be a wonderful gift. In fact, it may be the best gift ever!

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*Pain – The Invisible Symptom*

     What do senior dogs and cats have in common with old cars? They both have trouble getting started on a cold day! However, the reasons why are very different. Many owners think their senior pets are just “getting old” (like their car) when they’re reluctant to get up from their bed, especially when it’s cold and wet outside. More than likely, it’s a sign of pain.

“How can it be pain, you say, my pet isn’t limping or crying out when they move?” Well, you’re right, but most cats and dogs rarely cry out or limp until the pain has reached an extreme level.   They are the exact opposite of humans. We learn early, as babies, that crying and showing our pain will get us help and relief, but this doesn’t happen in the animal world. The wild ancestors of our domestic dogs and cats who cried out in pain or exhibited a disability could expect to be preyed upon and eaten, lose their position in the pack or be driven out of their territory by a rival. This has lead to a natural inclination to hide pain and symptoms of illness.

So, how do we know when they’re in pain? The number one thing to look for is ….. whatever causes you to be in pain. After all, if you broke your arm or had surgery, wouldn’t you be in pain? Well, then you can expect a dog or cat to be in pain and need help if they experience the same types of problems as we do. So, the rule of thumb is, if a human would want pain relief for the same problem a pet is experiencing, then a pet needs it too.

Because a pet hides their signs of pain, it can difficult to know when they’re in pain. However, there are some clues. First, a pet may actually hide themselves in the house. This is especially common in cats. If your pet is going off by themselves and this isn’t their normal behavior, chances are, something is wrong.

A second sign of pain is slowness or even refusal to move. Now, sometimes a pet will fool us, because if the incentive is great enough (like the desire to chase a squirrel or eat a treat food), a pet may decide to move through the pain to get the reward. What you really want to watch for is that ordinary things that your pets use to do are no longer being done.

Since it isn’t easy to recognize that your pet is in pain, it’s a good idea to have your veterinarian give your pet a physical exam at least once a year to actively look for painful conditions. This should be done bi-annually in senior pets as the odds of finding painful conditions rapidly increases with age. An added benefit is that early detection and treatment is usually less expensive and more successful than waiting until a small problem becomes a big one.

There are many options for effective pain relief for pets from bedding and climbing aids, weight management, nutritional supplements, laser therapy, chiropractic adjustments, acupuncture, and prescription pain relievers.

Whether the pain is from trauma, disease or dental/surgical procedures, pets don’t have to suffer in silence. It’s up to us as their advocates to recognize their pain and get them the help they need.

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*Cats and Dogs Are Welcome Here!*

     I have been a veterinarian for over thirty years and during that time I have always been a dog and cat doctor. There are several reasons for this choice. First, I love dogs and cats and have some of my own. Second, they are the most popular family pets in West Michigan, so I have lots of potential patients out there. Last, I enjoy being around people who have dogs and cats too. We share a bond, in that we love the same things.

However, even though I really look forward to each dog and cat patient that comes to see me, they don’t always share the same sentiment. I understand. I really do. Who wants to visit someone who rudely invades your space and then pokes you with needles or, as we call it, performs an exam and gives vaccines?

We do a lot to sweeten the deal for dogs. We know most of them can be won over with tasty food. So, we have peanut butter and canned cheese on hand for a distraction. We also provide interesting toys and rawhide to chew.

Cats, on the other hand, are tougher customers. They ignore our treats and disdain our toys. We needed to do better! So, about three years ago, we went through the process of becoming a “Cat Friendly Practice” (CFP) through The Association of Cat Practitioners.

This is not a quick or simple process. The entire veterinary team went through training on cat behavior and low stress handling. We learned how to create an atmosphere and physical facility welcoming to cats. In total, there were 10 training modules and it took us 6 months to complete the training and earn the CFP designation.

We were reminded that cats aren’t arbitrarily stuck up or mean. They’re afraid. When a cat is afraid, they want to run and hide. If they can’t run, they will stand and fight. Now that we understand why they behave as they do, we can help.

First, we limit their exposure to any other pets when they come to our hospital. As soon as they arrive, they are taken into a quiet room where they can feel safe from the intrusion of other cats and dogs. Inside the room, we treat the air with a pheromone product that interacts with their brain chemistry to produce a calming effect.

If they come in a cat carrier (which I highly recommend), I allow them to come out on their own or simply remove the top and examine them inside the bottom of the carrier. I encourage them to “hide” in a towel or a kitty cuddly sack when I give them their physical. This allows them to feel safe and yet still be examined, vaccinated or have other procedures.

Once their visit is finished, they stay in the exam room until their owner is finished at the business desk and is ready to leave. Then they can make a quick exit back to the car without any lingering time in the lobby area.

I have discovered that these and other changes have greatly impacted the comfort of my feline patients and when the cats are happy, everyone involved is more at ease. If you’d like to know more about cat friendly practices, check out www.catvets.com/cfp for more information or better yet, schedule an exam for your cat and see for yourself!

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*Moving with Your Pet*

     Moving to a new home is an exciting, stressful and tiring time for people and pets. The difference, however, is that you know where you’re going and what to expect, not so with your pet. All of a sudden, their nice, familiar environment is torn apart and they are packed into a stuffed car to arrive at a new and unknown place. They don’t know who or what to expect and it’s pretty scary. So, here are a few tips to make it better for them:

First, make sure they have a microchip or at least an ID tag attached to them at all times. If they escape the car or leave the new home and get lost during the move, identification is your best way to get them back. Also, make sure the information is useful. It doesn’t help to have your old phone number/address on the ID when you’re not there anymore. Before you move, add your new address/phone number to your microchip data base and put an updated ID tag on your pet’s collar. If you don’t have time for any of this, at least write your cell phone number on a piece of packaging tape and wrap it around your pet’s collar.

Cats and dogs look at moving to a new residence in very different ways. Dogs are pack animals. If the whole pack (i.e. you and yours) go to the same place together, it is a much less stressful event than going there alone. Many dogs will not be stressed at all and settle in right away as long as they have food, water and you. For those who don’t, there are things you can do. I’ll tell you about this in a few paragraphs.

Cats on the other hand, don’t form pack relationships. Yes, they love you and enjoy hanging with you, but their “true” love is their territory (your home). Once they establish themselves in their little kingdom, they don’t want anything to change and certainly they don’t want to leave. So, as soon as boxes and movers appear, their stress level starts to rise. Then, when they get to a new home, they are absolutely freaked out with fear about what dangers may be present in this strange new place. The good news is that there are many things we can do to reduce the stress and speed a connection to the new territory.

The most important thing for your cat is to make sure it is acclimated to a cat carrier. Put the carrier out all the time where your cat can interact with it in your house. Leave the door open with a comfy blanket inside and put treats in it to entice your cat to go in. The idea is to make it “a home away from home” not “the evil box” that takes your cat away from all that is good when you put them in it for travel. Cover the carrier with a towel so your cat can’t see the scenery. Remember, strange territory means danger to your cat, so, what they can’t see won’t bother them as much.

The next step is to reduce stress with a pheromone product – Feliway for cats and Adaptil for dogs. These products come in sprays, wipes and room dispensers. They mimic natural pheromones produced by cats and dogs and interact with brain chemistry when a pet breaths them into their body. They cause relaxation by making pets feel safe, protected and at home. Begin using them several weeks before the move and continue for at least a month in the new place. Your cat or dog will be relaxing in your new home in no time.

If it is possible, get a room set up in your new home as soon as you arrive where you can place your pet with familiar things from your old home. Set up their dog crate or pet carrier in the room along with toys, bed and litterbox. Play some quiet music and darken the lights. Avoid going in and out of the room until your belongings are inside and doors to the outside are shut. Then, when things are quiet, open the door and let your pet explore their new place.

If you know that your pet is extremely nervous, you may want to talk to us about additional natural products or even prescription medications to reduce anxiety. This may be especially useful if there are going to be multiple moves in a short period of time or additional stressors like new pets in the new home.

Moving is hard on everyone, but with a little effort you can make it better. Try some of these tips and everyone will feel more welcome in the new home.

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* Have a Happy “Howl”loween*

   Everyone knows by now that Halloween is almost as popular as Christmas when it comes to decorating and celebrating for the holiday. That enthusiasm has spilled over to involve our dogs and cats as well. Case in point, check out the selection of pet costumes now showing up at your local pet stores and even grocery stores. It’s beginning to rival that of children.

Dressing a pet in cloths isn’t always a good time for all dogs and cats, so make sure to keep in mind whether your pet will be tolerant of this activity. If they fight you on this, maybe a decoration on their collar would be best. On the other hand, if they don’t mind a costume, have at it! Just make sure to keep their eyes, ears, nose and mouth clear and they can walk without interference.

Don’t forget to take pictures. That way, you can remember the fun (or embarrass them) later. Speaking of that, we would like to share in the fun. So, please send us a picture of your pet (technicians@rockfordanimalhospital.com) and we would be happy to show the rest of the world how cute or funny your best furry friend is via our Facebook page.

Now, just a few safety tips for your buddies this Halloween. Keep all candy out of reach of your pet. At the least, it will give them an upset stomach. At the worst, both chocolate candies and those containing Sorbitol (a natural, low-calorie sweetener) are poisonous to dogs and cats and could be deadly.

Do not leave your pet free roaming outside over Halloween night and keep them securely leashed or in a place where there is no danger of them escaping if indoors. Pets can become frightened and escape out the door when you open it to greet trick or treaters.

HAVE A SAFE AND FUN HALLOWEEN!

The post * Have a Happy “Howl”loween* – by Dr. Carol Good – Rockford Animal Hospital appeared first on Rockford Animal Hospital.

Call your veterinarian’s office and other vets in your area to report a lost pet:
Give a description including Male or Female, whether or not the pet has been  neutered/spayed, color, and any identifying markings; collar/tag info; microchip number; date pet went missing; cross streets where pet went missing; your contact information
Post on our Facebook page:  Rockford Animal Hospital
Post on the Facebook page:  For the Love of Louie “Michigan Lost Pet Lookers”
Visit/call the Animal Shelter (616-632-7300) or the Humane Society (616-453-8900) to see if pet was picked up and taken in.
Put an ad in your local paper – usually free
Put up fliers around your neighborhood and in vets’ offices

Did you find a pet?

Call your veterinarian’s office and other vets in your area to report a found pet:
Give a description including Male or Female, whether the pet has been neutered/spayed, color, and any identifying markings; collar/tag info; when pet was found; cross streets where pet was found; your contact information
Take the pet to a vet’s office to check for microchip
Post on our Facebook page:  Rockford Animal Hospital – and any other area veterinary   practices
Post on the Facebook page:  For the Love of Louie “Michigan Lost Pet Lookers”
Contact the Animal Shelter (616-632-7300) or the Humane Society (616-453-8900) to see if anyone called to report a lost pet
Put an ad in your local paper – usually free
Put up fliers around your neighborhood and in vets’ offices
MDARD has previously advised that as long as the finder of an animal places a Found pet report with animal control in their jurisdiction for seven business days, the animal can be considered theirs at the end of that seventh business day. For Kent Co that would be the Kent Co Animal Shelter and they can take those reports over the telephone. 616-632-7300

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*Fall Fleas Are At Their Worst*

     Summer is over and the fall season is here but that doesn’t mean the possibility of flea infection is fading. In fact, I have been talking to more people with flea infections in the last week than I have in the last 3 months. This is because, in West Michigan, the risk of flea infestation is at its highest in the fall. Now, at first glance, it may seem that summer months would be the most risky time for exposure to fleas, but it’s not. Let me explain why.

In the early spring, the flea cocoons, which hibernated outside through the winter, wake up from their dormancy when the temperatures begin to rise above 50 F. They hatch and jump onto any warm-blooded mammal that walks by such as raccoons, skunks and your pet. Once the fleas get a blood meal, the females begin laying eggs at a rate of 50 per day. These eggs will take from 5 to 21 days to grow up into new adult fleas and at least half of them will be female who will begin laying more eggs. This continues on and on. So that, by October, each original female flea has produced trillions and trillions of offspring, all hungry for a new host on which to feed.

The plain truth is: if you aren’t using flea protection, your pet and home are more likely to be infested now than any other time of the year because of the sheer numbers of fleas. As I’ve said in past blogs, the financial cost and headaches that come with treating a flea infection in your house and on your pet is much greater than the price of a monthly preventative plan. Not to mention the pain of human and pet allergic reactions to flea bites and the diseases that fleas can spread to your pet like tapeworms. Besides, who wants the “Icky-factor” of fleas crawling on your own body and biting you?

If you’ve stopped using flea control with the end of summer, I hope I’ve convinced you to get back on the bandwagon. If you’ve never given a flea control product and don’t know what product is best for your pet, I’d be happy to discuss the pros and cons of what’s available and give you a recommendation. Just call, stop by, or e-mail Rockford Animal Hospital for advice.

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*Part 3 – How to Potty Train Your Puppy*

     If you have been reading these blogs on potty training as they originally appeared, you know that it has taken a few weeks for me to complete this series of articles. Thanks for sticking with me!

The last stage of potty training that a puppy needs to learn is being able to go outdoors to eliminate without any supervision. As you first start teaching your puppy, it is very important that you always be close by when you take them out to eliminate. There are two reasons for this. First, you can’t train your puppy if you are not with them. You need to be able to see if your puppy pees or poops so you can immediately praise and reward him for the correct action. This is the essence of teaching.

Secondly, your puppy will experience separation anxiety if he is left alone outdoors. He will cry and pace and not think about elimination. If you want your puppy to focus on learning, he can’t be fearful or anxious because these emotions cause chemicals to be released in the brain that block the learning process. Instead, we want to create an environment where your puppy is ready to learn.

Once your puppy has learned everything involved in potty training and is doing it consistently, then you can begin to separate from them gradually over time. Begin by taking him out and then moving back a few steps toward the house. By now, your puppy has learned that you will give him a reward for eliminating.   So, as soon as he is done, he will look for you and run over to get his reward. If your puppy continues to perform well, then every few days, move another step back. In a couple weeks, you will eventually be able to let your puppy out to potty and he will return to the door to be rewarded and let back inside.

At this point I would recommend teaching your puppy to sit at the door to be let inside. This will be less damaging to the screen and trim than letting him jump or scratch at the door.

Once your puppy is going out, eliminating and coming back indoors with no accidents in the house for a month, you can gradually stop giving food treats as a reward for eliminating. Verbal praise will usually be enough once your puppy knows what you want him to do.

However, there is benefit to intermittently giving a food reward for correct behavior. If you give your puppy a food reward once in a while for correct behavior once it is learned, it will ingrain the behavior into their mind. Since they never know when the food reward will come, they will continue to do the activity correctly in the hope of getting the reward.   I call this the “Slot Machine Effect” because it is the same behavior human’s exhibit when playing the slot machines at a gambling casino. We put money in a machine over and over in the hope of getting cash reward. If we win, once in a while (or see someone else win), we will continue to do the behavior even though we don’t win every time.

This concludes my potty training advice. The main points are: 1) Be there to do it. 2) Be consistent, clear and patient. 3) Reward the behavior you want and do not use punishment. If you would like more advice on how to train you puppy in other areas, check out our library of articles on our website at www.rockfordanimalhospital.com   Use the search engine to find a specific topic.

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